The Humble Spud


I get annoyed when people dismiss certain vegetables out of hand as ‘fattening’. I spoke with a lady the other day who said she couldn’t eat potatoes because they had too many ‘empty carbs’ and she questioned ‘what’s in them anyway?’ Firstly, you don’t have to eat potatoes for breakfast, lunch and tea. Secondly, we could all learn to shown some restraint with portion size. But to rule out an incredibly nutritious vegetable altogether I think is wrong – especially one that has such a strong history with this country to the point where it has become synonymous with Ireland.

How the potato got to Ireland in the first place is a bit of a mystery. Sir Walter Raleigh, Sir Francis Drake and John Hawkins have all been credited with introducing the tuber into Europe. The usual story for Ireland is that Sir Walter Raleigh brought it here when he was came to help suppress the Desmond Rebellions between 1579 and 1583. However, there is absolutely no evidence to support this dating from that time in any of the Raleigh-related estate records. Some evidence comes in the form of hearsay some 100 years later through the minutes of a Royal Society meeting held 13th December 1693 when it’s president Sir Robert Southwell (1635-1702) stated that his grandfather had ‘brought potatoes into Ireland who had them from Sir Walter Raleigh after his return from Virginia’. This may or may not have been the case. There does seem to be a connection with Spain however as an early name for potato was An Spáinneach. A likely scenario is that the first potatoes reached us from Spain via commercial trading routes.

Either way, Ireland fell in love with the spud. And as a staple food of a country, potatoes weren’t a bad option. They were one of the few staples that one could live nutritionally on exclusively which was the case for about 40% of the population in the 1800s. Potatoes are a good source of protein, vitamins and minerals such as iron and zinc, and of course the First World dreaded starch. All was good until 1845 when the potatoes were struck by blight and this, coupled with Ireland’s political and commercial practices at the time, resulted in the famine.

When Irish people think of potatoes their eyes often glaze over at the thought of freshly boiled new potatoes and rubbing the thin skins off before eating them with butter, salt and some new onions. Or colcannon, which is one of the most celebrated of Irish potato recipes and one of our favourites. It has all the simple goodness of floury potatoes, kale, milk, butter and scallions – Heaven! Maybe this is what the lady meant when she said that she couldn’t eat potatoes as they were fattening. But is there any dish that can evoke an Irish childhood more?


What you need:

  • 2lb or 1kg of Floury potatoes
  • 400g chopped kale
  • 1¼ cup/ 320ml milk
  • 6 tablespoons butter
  • 4 scallions, finely chopped
  • Salt and pepper

What to do:

  1. Boil the potatoes in a large pot until tender. Always start with cold water, never using hot water. Otherwise you will end up with floury outside and a hard middle.
  2. Add 3 tablespoons of butter to a pan over a medium heat. Add the kale and cook until just wilted. This should take about 5 minutes.
  3. Strain the potatoes. Add the milk, butter and scallions to the pot and let simmer gently for 2 minutes to infuse the milk with the scallion. Add the kale and the peeled potatoes to the pot. Mash until smooth.
  4. Season with salt and pepper
  5. To serve traditionally, make a crater on top of each portion using the back of a spoon. Add a knob of butter to each crater so that every forkful of colcannon can be dipped into the lake of melted butter.

Published in The Western People 20th July 2015

Rosemary and Garlic Roast Potatoes

Who doesn’t love a crunchy cornered hot roast potato? The following method always results in crunchy potatoes for me. You need a heavy bottomed roasting tray, and to follow the procedure to the letter.

Serves 6 to  8

Potatoes: 1 kg preferably new potatoes, or other suitably waxy varieties such as Charlotte. However, this method has worked for us on most varieties including Roosters, Kerr Pinks etc.

Sunflower oil

Garlic: 8 to 10 large cloves, just slightly crushed against the work top under the heel of your hand.

Rosemary: 3 sprigs

Salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Peel the potatoes, and cut larger ones in half to have a uniform size throughout.   Place in a large saucepan, covered in cold water. At this point, turn on oven to 2o0 degrees or Gas mark 6 and pre-heat heavy bottomed roasting tray. Leave in the oven heating until it is required. Heat the saucepan of potatoes until the water is almost at simmering and then turn off. Drain immediately and return to the hot saucepan to fully evaporate the potatoes of all water. Once they are dry, add a few good glugs of sunflower oil and fully coat the potatoes in the oil to seal them and also to have a good excess of oil in the pan.

Remove the hot heavy bottomed roasting tray from the oven, and place on the hob for safety, prior to gently pouring the potatoes and the excess oil onto the hot tray. Add freshly ground pepper and sea salt to the potatoes, and the cloves of garlic and sprigs of rosemary. Turn them gently in the oil and return to the oven for 40 minutes until the are golden brown. Turn once half way through.

Once cooked to a crunchy outside and a soft fluffy middle, drain well on paper, place in a warm bowl tossed with chopped up fresh rosemary from one sprig. Serve straight away.